A River Runs Through It-Fast

“They close down the Gorge to all commercial traffic at 3000cfs,” announced our guide Scott as we passed what amounted to a big yardstick poking out of the Arkansas River just before it turns toward the gorge it has carved over the last million or so years.

“At 2600cfs, this should be a beautiful ride!” 

I had no clue what he was talking about, but at this point it I pretty much had to take his word for it.

And a beautiful ride it was- Thanks Scott

Less than a two hour drive from Colorado Springs, we arrived in Cotopaxi  45 minutes before our 8:30am departure.  For years I had kept whitewater rafting near the top of my “Cool Things to Do” list, though for some reason or another it just found a way to get skipped over year after year.    With my buddy Josh and I finding ourselves with a rare day off together and looking for something to do, we both agreed it was due time to check this one off.

The stretch of CO50 between Canyon City and Salida is saturated with numerous rafting tour companies.  We knew we wanted a half-day run, and it became apparent pretty quick that every company offered essentially the same two tours that fit the bill- Bighorn Canyon, highly regarded as a stellar introductory route for the novice rafter and the Royal Gorge, the most famous stretch of Class IV and V rapids in the world with the ability to trump the most experienced of thrill seekers.

Naturally, we picked the Gorge.  Hey, if you’re going do it, DO IT!

I wasn't so sure the Gorge was going to take us seriously

We settled on Arkansas River Tours, based in Cotopaxi, for the fact we wanted an outfitter a bit off the beaten path, as well as the fact that they offered a 10% discount for mentioning the ad on their website.  I am a sucker for a good deal.

From ART headquarters, we were about twenty miles from where we would enter the river.  Before loading the vans, we fought our way into wetsuits and introduced ourselves to our guide Scott, and a family of four from Oklahoma who shared our raft. 

Gearing up to head out

The van took us to the Parkdale entrance of the Arkansas, just before the river releases itself from its parallel journey alongside CO50 and makes its descent into the Royal Gorge.  We took our positions in the raft while resting on the banks where we received instruction on Scott’s commands, proper stroke form, as well as emergency procedures. 

After launching into the river we were afforded the luxury of a good mile of calm waters to hone our strokes.  Before long, we were greeted by our first set of rapids, a class III known as Primero, where I learned my first valuable lesson of the day: water hits hard. 

Wearing a size 14 shoe I was struggling to wedge my feet into the boat and got lazy.  We crashed the first wave, and my right foot released and went above my head for the first time in probably twenty years, almost sending me over for a swim.  From that point foreward my foot was wedged for the rest of the day, swollen and pulsating though it may have been.

What makes the Royal Gorge so challenging is the succession of rapids, almost one into the next without much separation.  As the river picked up speed as it fell an average of 65 feet for every mile, the class III rapids gave way to classic IV’s and V’s such as Sunshine Falls, Sledgehammer, and Boat Eater.  We hardly had time to notice as we made our way under the Royal Gorge Bridge and Scott pushed us to focus and dig as we attacked the river.

Me, laughing like a schoolgirl, as we navigate The Gorge

The waters calmed as they flowed closer to Canyon City, allowing us to pull in our oars and soak in the beauty of the canyon as its walls lowered and it started to open up again.  Nearly two hours after we began and ten miles downstream, our ride was over.

The ride back to Cotopaxi was quiet but satisfying.  Josh had fallen asleep next to me, using his life-jacket as a pillow, while the out-of-towners in the van stared out the window, absorbing the legendary Colorado scenery. 

Me? I was wet, I was sore, and I was sunburnt, but I had a smile on my face as wide as the Gorge itself.

Gratuitous topless shot of yours truly after the ride

Though now may be the prime season for rafting the Arkansas, the season will remain cranked up through August.  Arkansas River Tours offers trips for every level of experience, and are the only outfitter who has created trips for families with kids as young as five.  Contact Arkansas River Tours at 1-800-321-4352, and ask for Scott to be your guide.  His enthusiasm and experience from the back of the boat will guide you toward a ride to remember.

The trip to Cotopaxi is worth it